高效液相色谱-荧光检测法同时测定化妆品中的α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚

目的： 建立同时测定化妆品中α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚的高效液相色谱-荧光检测（HPLC-FLD）法。方法： 样品用甲醇提取，提取液采用C₁₈柱（250 mm×4.6 mm×5 μm）分离，以甲醇-水为流动相梯度洗脱，流速为0.5 mL·min^-1，进样量5 μL，采用荧光检测器检测。结果： α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚质量浓度分别在0.25~20、0.25~20、0.025~2和0.05~4 μg·mL^-1范围内线性关系良好，方法检出浓度分别为2、2、0.1和0.2 μg·g^-1。4个待测物的方法回收率平均为90.0%~96.7%，RSD（n=6）为1.3%~4.4%。测定了54批化妆品样品，均未检出氢醌和苯酚；17批样品检出β-熊果苷，含量在8~49 000 μg·g^-1之间；1批样品检出α-熊果苷，含量为410 μg·g^-1。结论： 本方法准确、灵敏，可用于化妆品中α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚的测定。

Objective: To establish a high performance liquid chromatography-fluorescent detection(HPLC-FLD) method for the simultaneous determination of α-arbutin,β-arbutin,hydroquinone and phenol in cosmetics. Methods: Samples were extracted by methanol,then the extract was separated on a C₁₈ column (250 mm×4.6 mm×5 μm)with the mobile phase of methanol-water in gradient elution at a flow rate of 0.5 mL·min^-1. The injection was 5 μL. The 4 analytes were finally detected by fluorescent detector. Results: The linear relationships of α-arbutin,β-arbutin,hydroquinone and phenol all showed good in the range of 0.25-20 μg·mL^-1,0.25-20 μg·mL^-1,0.025-2 μg·mL^-1 and 0.05-4 μg·mL^-1,respectively. The limits of detection were 2,2,0.1 and 0.2 μg·g^-1,respectively. The average recoveries were in the range of 90.0%-96.7% with the RSDs of 1.3%-4.4% (n=6).A number of fifty-four cosmetic samples were determined. No hydroquinone and phenol were detected. β-arbutin was found in seventeen cosmetic samples with the contents from 8 μg·g^-1 to 49 000 μg·g^-1. α-arbutin was detected in only one cosmetic sample with the content of 410 μg·g^-1. Conclusion: The method is accurate and sensitive for the determination of α-arbutin,β-arbutin,hydroquinone and phenol in cosmetics.

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